Whether it’s your first time rock climbing or your thousandth, New Jack City has it all! Located inconspicuously in Sawtooth Canyon Campground in the middle of nowhere between Barstow and Big Bear Lake, New Jack City has over 450 routes, free camping, and TOILETS (that’s a big deal in the climbing world).
Approaches are minimal and the rock climbing is unique and ranges from 5.4 to 5.13. In particular, the abundance of climbs under 5.8 (67 to be exact) make this my FAVORITE rock climbing area for beginners in Southern California!
Just last week, I brought my mom here on her first climbing trip and we had a blast! For this trip, I spent a lot of time compiling my favorite routes for her to climb.
Below are our top 10 beginner rock climbs in New Jack City! Included are some of our favorite routes from our latest trip as well as a few others that I’d enjoyed in the past.
#10 N00B Slab (5.5)
Located in Roadside West, this climb lies right next to a campsite and could be made even easier than 5.5 depending on the line you climb. I’ve never actually done this climb which is why it’s ranked #10, but it made the potential list due to its easy access and northwest aspect for hot days.
The next two climbs are located at Caprica and were some of my favorites when I was just learning to climb! Although I like Caprica, the bolts aren’t maintained as often as other more popular crags, and I’ve chosen to scramble up and set topropes in the the past over leading, which is the reason for the lower ratings.
#9 Apollo (5.6)
Everything on the wall is fun and easy, but Apollo is the best 5.6 in my opinion.
#8 Starbuck (5.5)
Starbuck is rated slightly higher than Apollo in my book only because it’s such an easy climb and really fun for complete beginners!
**Pro tip: If you’re new to trad leading, Husker (5.5) on this same wall was one of my first trad leads and is a perfect beginner rock climb!
#7 SPF 2020 (5.7)
This climb is located at Sunnyside, which is an awesome beginner crag for cold winter days (also home to climb #1!). There are a whole series of 5.7s available to you, but my favorite was SPF 2020. It flowed well and made for fun climbing!
#6 Welcome to the Welcome Wall (5.7)
Welcome to the Welcome Wall is located at the Entrance Area on Welcome Wall which is home to a handful of other 5.7s. I have not climbed this route, but it made the list because it’s rated well on Mountain Project, is near other 5.7s, and offers a coveted shady beginner climb for the hotter days.
I discovered the next two climbs on a climbing trip last winter. They were right in our campsite but weren’t on Mountain Project, so we decided to give them a go!
They are located just behind the campsite next to the second pit toilet. There are three bolted climbs total, but I liked the following two the best.
#5 Unknown Campsite 5.6
The unknown 5.6 is the middle set of bolts. The crux is right at the start, but once you get going, the rest is very enjoyable!
#4 Unknown Campsite 5.5
The unknown campsite 5.5 follows the left arete to the top of the formation and is my personal favorite on the wall. This was also my mom’s favorite climb of the trip! The best part is there won’t be crowds because I don’t believe it’s in any guidebook yet.
#3 Love Potion #9 (5.7)
Located on The Valentine Wall, I found this climb really fun, and it seemed like a great introduction to 5.7 climbing at New Jack City!
#2 Custom Tailored (5.7)
Located at Raven Rocks South, this sunny climb is my favorite 5.7 in New Jack City! I found Custom Tailored slightly more challenging that Love Potion #9. I think it’s the perfect step before breaking into 5.8 climbing (like Taylor Made next door).
The moves are interesting and make you think, and the climb itself is quite tall at 65′.
#1 My Son (5.4)
My Son is my FAVORITE beginner climb at New Jack City for a few reasons.
First of all, it’s located at Sunnyside which is home to lots of other beginner climbs. Additionally, it’s in the sun which is perfect for winter and there is almost no approach.
It’s very easy and straightforward, so it’s the first climb I put new climbers on as well as new sport leaders. Plus, the anchor has clips for easy and safe cleaning.
I’d argue that My Son is the best beginner rock climb in Southern California for first-time climbers or leaders alike.
I hope you have an awesome beginner rock climbing trip to New Jack City! I’d recommend visiting on a weekday in the wintertime so you can enjoy that SoCal sun and wide open climbs. Don’t hesitate to contact me with questions and I hope to see you out there!