Rock Climbing in Ojai, California: A 3 Day Travel Guide

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rock climbing in ojai the fortress PEH
Luke Dutton topping out on Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9) at The Fortress near Ojai, CA
Ojai, California is a melting pot. This quaint town lies a half hour from the ocean in the foothills of Los Padres National Forest. 
 
Because of its unique location, Ojai is home to mountain lovers and ocean lovers, the older country generation and trendy younger generation alike. It still retains its old California feel while somehow welcoming the new trendy LA vibe.
 
The thing that brings everyone together is a love for nature. It’s a nature-lover’s oasis. Here you can find everything from local mountain bike trails to hidden swimming holes. Ojai is also a main gateway to backpacking in the Sespe Wilderness. What many don’t know is that there are also fun climbing crags just minutes away, and the rock climbing in Ojai is some of the best in the area!
 
Up Highway 33 in Los Padres National Forest lies a rock climber’s paradise. Just minutes from Ojai, these single pitch and multi-pitch crags are perfect for the moderate climber looking for a chill adventure in the mountains. An added bonus? Much of the rock climbing in Ojai has approaches that are under 10 minutes!

Day 1 of Rock Climbing in Ojai: Wheeler Gorge

Located just 15 minutes from downtown Ojai, Wheeler Gorge is a fun roadside crag right on Matilija Creek. Wheeler Gorge boasts three types of rock to climb on: sandstone, schist, and conglomerate. The moderate routes are almost all exclusively located on the conglomerate walls. 

This is a year-round crag, and while summertime temperatures can consistently reach over 90°, the Gorge is mostly shady. Plus, the creek runs just feet from the walls: perfect for a quick dip between climbs! The winters rarely dip below freezing and temperature tends to average around 50°-60°. 

Wheeler Gorge rock climb approach
Approaching the climbs through Wheeler Gorge
Summertime sport climbing

Climbing Approach for Wheeler Gorge

Take the 33 north from Ojai. Park just after the third tunnel in a pullout on the left. Carefully walk back through the closest tunnel and hop over the wall on the right to find the climbers’ trail. There are climbs both upstream and downstream. The hike takes no more than 15 minutes for any crag. I love short approaches! They leave more time and energy for climbing!

Climbing Recommendations at Wheeler Gorge

The easiest climbs I’d recommend are two 5.8s called Ripple Rider and Cobble Climb. They are the best introduction to this style of climbing.
 
My favorite climb is a 5.10a called Economique, most of which is a bit softer. This climb is located upstream of the climbers’ trail and is extremely fun and exposed. However, a stick clip is mandatory, as the crux is before the high first bolt, and a fall would send you tumbling down a gully. Apart from that, the climb is outstanding, and allows access to the anchors for Goulara (10c) for those interested in setting a top-rope!
rock climbing in Ojai
I lead Cobble Climb (5.8) on slick conglomerate rock

Necessary Gear for Climbing Wheeler Gorge:

  • Typical sport climbing gear (shoes, harness, chalk, belay device, etc.)
  • 10 draws
  • Sport anchor
  • Stick Clip

Day 2 of Rock Climbing in Ojai: The Fortress

Now that you’ve warmed up on some single pitch climbs at Wheeler Gorge, you’re ready for a super fun sport multipitch at The Fortress, a small collection of moderate sport routes on multiple vertical levels. This is my favorite location for rock climbing in Ojai. 

The weather here tends to be similar to the weather in Ojai, but due to the higher elevation, it can dip below freezing in the winter and occasionally even snow! The Fortress will be sunny for a majority of the day for most of the year, so even cooler winter days can still be doable. For the hot summer days, the wall goes into the shade late afternoon, so maybe take a mid-day dip in a swimming hole to beat the heat.

Climbing Approach for The Fortress

Take Highway 33 north for 13 miles past Wheeler Gorge. When you’re almost there, you will pass Black Wall, a prominent roadside cliff on the left predominantly used for moderate traditional climbing (day 3). Continue for another half mile and you should see three large triangular spires of sandstone on the left. 

You will park in a very large pullout on the left. At the back of the pullout, there is a pretty obvious trail heading down to the creek. Here you will have two options for climbing areas: the Right Side Gully and the Central Gully. 

The trail for the Right Side Gully breaks off right and heads up a steep and loose talus hill where you must choose your path of least resistance (and poison oak). This trail leads you to the base of Free to Choose (5.9-). Continuing downstream will grant you access to the Central Gully. You’ll see Footprints (5.4) off to the right. 

Although you must be aware of hazards like loose rock and poison oak (especially at the Right Side Gully), each approach only takes about 10 minutes. Did I mention I love a short approach? Especially a roadside moderate multi-pitch! My favorite multi-pitch (Spontaneous Order) is in the Central Gully!

rock climbing in ojai the fortress topo
Lindsay Hart rappelling Spontaneous Order. Red: Footprints (5.4), Yellow: Blue in Green (5.6), Light blue: Rational Expectations (5.7), Dark blue: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)

What to Climb at The Fortress

The longest multipitch route at The Fortress is located in the Central Gully and is called Spontaneous Order (5.9+). This route is 4 pitches long, rising about 350 feet from the base. I 100% recommend this route. 
 
If you aren’t quite up for leading a 5.9, don’t let the grade scare you. This climb is the PERFECT setup. The only 5.9/5.10 move is at the very top. Each pitch of this climb gets progressively more challenging than the last, and each belay ledge is a comfortable destination all in itself, so you can end when you’ve reached your limit. Plus, if you have an inexperienced second, you can set a top-rope on the hardest pitch and give them a little “assistance”.
 
Spontaneous Order consists of 4 climbs in order from the ground up: Footprints (5.4), Blue in Green (5.6), either Rational Expectations (5.7) (left) or Magali’s Arete (5.7) (right), and Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a). There are several different options to piece together alternate pitches for this route, but this is the main route I’d recommend for the most straightforward and comfortable experience.
rock climbing in ojai the fortress 2
Lindsay Hart (left) and Hadley Beahan (right) at the top of pitch 2 on Spontaneous Order (5.9+)
rock climbing in ojai the fortress 3
Brittney Shadday following pitch 3, Rational Expectations (5.7), on Spontaneous Order (5.9+)

Necessary Gear for Climbing The Fortress

  • Typical sport climbing gear
  • Personal anchor
  • 8 quickdraws and one optional sling— the longest pitch is Blue in Green (5.6) at about 110 feet and has 6 bolts. The runout section didn’t bother me, but you can wrap a tree with an extra double-length sling if you feel the need for extra protection.
  • 2 sport anchors— double length runners will suffice.
  • 60m rope— You will have to rappel to the base of Snickerdoodle and scramble down to the base of Blue in Green. 
    • 70m rope— Might reach the base of Blue in Green. Tie knots and trend left towards the base for a few feet of scrambling if necessary.
    • 80m rope— can easily rappel the route with about 10ft to spare on both ends.
the fortress 4 belay 1
Nick Hoffman on rappel for Blue In Green (5.6). In the foreground, you can see the scrambling terrain if you have a 60m or potentially 70m rope.

Day 3 of Rock Climbing in Ojai: Black Wall

For those looking for traditional rock climbing in Ojai, this is the place to be. I’ll go out on a limb and say Black Wall at Sespe Gorge is the best trad crag near Santa Barbara. It is really the only crag with a variety of crack climbs to choose from that range from beginner to moderate. 

This crag can be climbed year-round unless it’s wet. The weather will be the same as at The Fortress (90°F in the summer, 40°F in the winter). This crag is in the shade for most of the year. In the summer, the sun is straight above and will hide behind the hill by early afternoon. 

The two minute approach and moderate climbs with multi-pitch potential are enough to get me climbing here again and again. If crack climbing is your jam, you won’t want to miss climbing at Black Wall.

Climbing Approach for Black Wall

Take Highway 33 north for 12 miles past Wheeler Gorge. Look for a prominent low angled cliff on the left side of the road. Park on the side of the road. Walk down a small trail and cross the stream. That’s it!

What to Climb at Black Wall

The most classic climb at Black Wall is Ending Crack (5.7). This is the most obvious crack up the center of the wall. Both anchors are bolted on this 2 pitch climb.

Ending Crack Pitch 1

I recommend this climb 100%. It is a great traditional route for beginners and follows a low angled crack. There are plenty of positive holds around the crack, so you can practice your crack climbing while still finding good stances for placing gear and positive holds if you get stuck. There are also plenty of gear placements as a nice confidence booster.

Ending Crack Pitch 2

The second pitch is not for beginners. The climbing difficulty steps up a level and placements become significantly trickier. It is still a fantastic climb, but just be aware of this if you choose to continue up.

black wall from p1 anchors
Laura King following Ending Crack (5.7) at Black Wall

Necessary Gear for Climbing Black Wall

  • Gear to 3″ is recommended.
  • 2 60m ropes to rappel from the bolted anchors at P2. (a single 80m will be sufficient if you plan to stop after P1)
  • Anchors, PAS, and whatever other typical trad climbing gear you find necessary.

Important to Note when Rock Climbing in Ojai

Rain and Sandstone

Most climbing in the Santa Barbara area is on sandstone. DO NOT CLIMB ON SANDSTONE WHEN IT’S WET. The rock needs at least a few days to dry out, maybe more for the shady areas. If the rock is damp, the integrity of the rock is compromised and holds can break off. Damp ground at the base of the crag is a good indication that you should skip climbing that day or opt for a sunnier spot/different type of rock.

Poison Oak

Coastal California is the perfect environment for poison oak which can be found on just about every climbing approach in the area. It loves to grow in shady areas and gorges— precisely where you will be rock climbing in Ojai. 

It is prevalent on the approach for The Fortress especially. Luckily, it is usually possible to avoid, but just barely, especially for the last scramble to the Right Side Gully. Know what to look for before you begin the approach.

Where to Eat in Ojai

After a long day of climbing, there’s nothing better than good food and a real restroom. You can find both of those at these restaurants:

  • The Ojai Beverage Company for great food and a large alcohol selection
  • Papa Lennon’s for pizza on a cute patio
  • Hip Vegan for a chill vegan cafe
  • Farmer and the Cook for farm-to-table vegetarian Mexican food

Where to Camp after Rock Climbing in Ojai

Wheeler Gorge Campground

The easiest place to camp after a day of climbing is in Wheeler Gorge itself! Wheeler Gorge Campground is only a short walk from the crags, and offers over 70 sites for reservation. 
You can find reservations and more information here.
 
Dispersed Camping in Los Padres National Forest
 
If a campground isn’t your thing, you can dispersed camp in much of Los Padres National Forest. I often see campers at various locations along Highway 33. If this is what you’re looking for, there are endless options. Just be aware that fires are frequently forbidden due to the extreme drought. 
 
PLEASE respect fire regulations and PLEASE pack out all your trash. Do your best to leave the forest better than you found it and we will all be able to enjoy this place for years to come. 
 
More information on the national forest including fire restrictions can be found here. 

More Climbs along Highway 33

Recommended Nearby Climbs

If you are an efficient leader or plan to stay an extra day, there are other awesome climbs in the area. 

More Rock Climbing at the Fortress

Free to Choose + Permanent Income Hypothesis linkup (5.9): Located in the Right Side Gully, you will climb the first pitch of Free to Choose (5.8) unrope, scramble left into the Right Side Gully, and climb Permanent Income Hypothesis, a 180ft 5.9 that follows an exposed arete to the top! A 60m rope will just reach. 
 
This is an incredible route, but requires an intermediate rap station for the 2nd pitch where it is common to find your rope stuck on the pull. Personally, my rope has gotten stuck in the same precarious spot twice— once pulling from the intermediate rap station and once pulling double ropes from the base. 

Bouldering at Pine Mountain

Beat the heat at this fun summertime bouldering location, only open in summer. Located about 15 miles north of The Fortress by Pine Mountain Campground, you’ll get that mountain feel in the pines while overlooking the Pacific Ocean from 6650 feet up.
belaying from above while rock climbing in ojai the fortress
Belaying from above on the first pitch of Free to Choose (5.8)

Other Activities Near Ojai

For those (like me) with many hobbies in addition to climbing, there are many things to do near Ojai if you decide to extend your stay or have some time in the evening.

  • Swimming holes: Before you head back to refuel in town or set up camp, be sure to take a refreshing plunge in a nearby swimming hole! There’s usually a small pool on the approaches for both Wheeler Gorge and The Fortress. For other areas, I won’t give you a specific location to keep crowds down, but within about a mile of the Fortress, there are quite a few places just a short walk off the road that are deep enough to take a little dunk on a hot day. I’ll leave you to go discover your favorite spot on your own!
  • Bike through Ventura River Preserve
  • Fish at Lake Casitas
  • Hit the beach at Emma Wood State Beach
  • Wine tasting at Topa Mountain Winery
  • Spa day at Ojai Valley Inn
  • Hike to Rose Valley Falls
  • Climb indoors at Santa Barbara Rock Gym or Boulderdash Indoor Rock Climbing in Ventura

Obsessed with Rock Climbing?

Southern California has a seemingly endless climbing scene. There are plenty of other crags within about an hour of Ojai spanning from the Santa Monica Mountains to Santa Barbara. For more rock climbing content, check out the posts below!

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