Day 1 Rock Climbing in Ojai: Wheeler Gorge
Located just 15 minutes from downtown Ojai, Wheeler Gorge is a fun roadside crag right on Matilija Creek. Wheeler Gorge boasts three types of rock to climb on: sandstone, schist, and conglomerate. The moderate routes are almost all exclusively located on the conglomerate walls.
This is a year-round crag, and while summertime temperatures can consistently reach over 90°, the Gorge is mostly shady. Plus, the creek runs just feet from the walls: perfect for a quick dip between climbs! The winters rarely dip below freezing and temperature tends to average around 50°-60°.
Climbing Approach for Wheeler Gorge
Take the 33 north from Ojai. Park just after the third tunnel in a pullout on the left. Carefully walk back through the closest tunnel and hop over the wall on the right to find the climbers’ trail. There are climbs both upstream and downstream. The hike takes no more than 15 minutes for any crag. I love short approaches! They leave more time and energy for climbing!
Climbing Recommendations at Wheeler Gorge
Necessary Gear for Climbing Wheeler Gorge:
- Typical sport climbing gear (shoes, harness, chalk, belay device, etc.)
- 10 draws
- Sport anchor
- Stick Clip
Day 2 Rock Climbing in Ojai: The Fortress
Now that you’ve warmed up on some single pitch climbs at Wheeler Gorge, you’re ready for a super fun sport multipitch at The Fortress, a small collection of moderate sport routes on multiple vertical levels. This is my favorite location for rock climbing in Ojai.
The weather here tends to be similar to the weather in Ojai, but due to the higher elevation, it can dip below freezing in the winter and occasionally even snow! The Fortress will be sunny for a majority of the day for most of the year, so even cooler winter days can still be doable. For the hot summer days, the wall goes into the shade late afternoon, so maybe take a mid-day dip in a swimming hole to beat the heat.
Climbing Approach for The Fortress
Take Highway 33 north for 13 miles past Wheeler Gorge. When you’re almost there, you will pass Black Wall, a prominent roadside cliff on the left predominantly used for moderate traditional climbing (day 3). Continue for another half mile and you should see three large triangular spires of sandstone on the left.
You will park in a very large pullout on the left. At the back of the pullout, there is a pretty obvious trail heading down to the creek. Here you will have two options for climbing areas: the Right Side Gully and the Central Gully.
The trail for the Right Side Gully breaks off right and heads up a steep and loose talus hill where you must choose your path of least resistance (and poison oak). This trail leads you to the base of Free to Choose (5.9-). Continuing downstream will grant you access to the Central Gully. You’ll see Footprints (5.4) off to the right.
Although you must be aware of hazards like loose rock and poison oak (especially at the Right Side Gully), each approach only takes about 10 minutes. Did I mention I love a short approach? Especially a roadside moderate multi-pitch! My favorite multi-pitch (Spontaneous Order) is in the Central Gully!
What to Climb at The Fortress
Necessary Gear for Climbing The Fortress
- Typical sport climbing gear
- Personal anchor
- 8 quickdraws and one optional sling— the longest pitch is Blue in Green (5.6) at about 110 feet and has 6 bolts. The runout section didn’t bother me, but you can wrap a tree with an extra double-length sling if you feel the need for extra protection.
- 2 sport anchors— double length runners will suffice.
- 60m rope— You will have to rappel to the base of Snickerdoodle and scramble down to the base of Blue in Green.
- 70m rope— Might reach the base of Blue in Green. Tie knots and trend left towards the base for a few feet of scrambling if necessary.
- 80m rope— can easily rappel the route with about 10ft to spare on both ends.
Day 3 Rock Climbing in Ojai: Black Wall
For those looking for traditional rock climbing in Ojai, this is the place to be. I’ll go out on a limb and say Black Wall at Sespe Gorge is the best trad crag near Santa Barbara. It is really the only crag with a variety of crack climbs to choose from that range from beginner to moderate.
The two minute approach and moderate climbs with multi-pitch potential are enough to get me climbing here again and again. If crack climbing is your jam, you won’t want to miss climbing at Black Wall.
Best Time to Climb at Black Wall
This crag can be climbed year-round unless it’s wet. The weather will be the same as at The Fortress (100°F in the summer, 40°F in the winter). This crag is in the shade for most of the winter. In the summer, the sun is straight above and will hide behind the hill by mid-afternoon.
Late summer afternoons and fall are the best seasons to climb. Due to the shade, the sandstone can take weeks to dry after a winter or early spring rain. However, the water at the base of the climb makes for awesome swimming holes to wait out the heat!
Climbing Approach for Black Wall
Take Highway 33 north for 12 miles past Wheeler Gorge. Look for a prominent low angled cliff on the left side of the road. Park on the side of the road. Walk down a small trail and cross the stream. That’s it!
What to Climb at Black Wall
The most classic climb at Black Wall is Ending Crack (5.7). This is the most obvious crack up the center of the wall. Both anchors are bolted on this 2 pitch climb. Another good beginner option is Tree Root (5.5) next door.
Ending Crack Pitch 1
I recommend this climb 100%. It is a great traditional route for beginners and follows a low angled crack. There are plenty of positive holds around the crack, so you can practice your crack climbing while still finding good stances for placing gear and positive holds if you get stuck. There are also plenty of gear placements as a nice confidence booster.
Ending Crack Pitch 2
The second pitch is not for beginners. The climbing difficulty steps up a level and placements become significantly trickier. It is still a fantastic climb, but just be aware of this if you choose to continue up.
Necessary Gear for Climbing Black Wall
- Gear to 3″ is recommended. I bring doubles of hand sizes.
- 2 60m ropes to rappel from the bolted anchors at P2. (a single 80m will be sufficient if you plan to stop after P1)
- Anchors, PAS, and whatever other typical trad climbing gear you find necessary.
Important to Note when Rock Climbing in Ojai
Rain and Sandstone
Most climbing in the Santa Barbara area is on sandstone. DO NOT CLIMB ON SANDSTONE WHEN IT’S WET. The rock needs at least a few days to dry out, maybe more like weeks for the shady areas. If the rock is damp, the integrity of the rock is compromised and holds can break off. Damp ground at the base of the crag is a good indication that you should skip climbing that day or opt for a sunnier spot/different type of rock.
Poison Oak
Coastal California is the perfect environment for poison oak which can be found on just about every climbing approach in the area. It loves to grow in shady areas and gorges— precisely where you will be rock climbing in Ojai.
It is prevalent on the approach for The Fortress especially. Luckily, it is usually possible to avoid, but just barely, especially for the last scramble to the Right Side Gully. Know what to look for before you begin the approach.
Where to Eat in Ojai
After a long day of climbing, there’s nothing better than good food and a real restroom. You can find both of those at these restaurants:
- The Ojai Beverage Company for great food and a large alcohol selection
- Papa Lennon’s for pizza on a cute patio
- Hip Vegan for a chill vegan cafe
- Farmer and the Cook for farm-to-table vegetarian Mexican food
Where to Camp after Rock Climbing in Ojai
Wheeler Gorge Campground
You can find reservations and more information here.
More Climbs along Highway 33
Recommended Nearby Climbs
More Rock Climbing at the Fortress
Bouldering at Pine Mountain
Other Activities Near Ojai
For those (like me) with many hobbies in addition to climbing, there are many things to do near Ojai if you decide to extend your stay or have some time in the evening.
- Swimming holes: Before you head back to refuel in town or set up camp, be sure to take a refreshing plunge in a nearby swimming hole! There’s usually a small pool on the approaches for both Wheeler Gorge and The Fortress. For other areas, I won’t give you a specific location to keep crowds down, but within about a mile of the Fortress, there are quite a few places just a short walk off the road that are deep enough to take a little dunk on a hot day. I’ll leave you to go discover your favorite spot on your own!
- Bike through Ventura River Preserve
- Fish at Lake Casitas
- Hit the beach at Emma Wood State Beach
- Wine tasting at Topa Mountain Winery
- Spa day at Ojai Valley Inn
- Hike to Rose Valley Falls
- Climb indoors at Santa Barbara Rock Gym or Boulderdash Indoor Rock Climbing in Ventura
Obsessed with Rock Climbing?
Southern California has a seemingly endless climbing scene. There are plenty of other crags within about an hour of Ojai spanning from the Santa Monica Mountains to Santa Barbara. For more rock climbing content, check out the posts below!