Rock Climbing in Malibu, California: A 3 Day Travel Guide

Malibu, California is known for its surf spots and multi-million dollar beach homes, but it’s also an incredible place for rock climbing! Below, I’ve compiled my favorite crags, campgrounds, and beaches— how I would spend three days rock climbing in Malibu on a budget!

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links, designed to allow The Unremarkable Climber (me) to earn a small commission if you choose to book through them, at no extra cost to you. This really helps support the site and lets me know you find this information valuable! That being said, all of the experiences I recommend, commission based or not, are genuine recommendations for some of my favorite activities, so I hope you enjoy them as much as I have! Feel free to drop any questions in the message box below.

Day 1: Sport Climbing in Malibu Creek State Park

The first stop on your three-day tour of Malibu, California should begin at a sport climber’s paradise within Malibu Creek State Park. Located just outside the city of Los Angeles in the Santa Monica Mountains, numerous movies have been filmed here including Planet of the Apes (reflected in many climbing route names).

The rock formations are made up of an exposed portion of the Conejo Volcanics. Here you will find some of the most unique climbing I’ve ever encountered— essentially a canyon of huecos, making for some of the juggiest gym-like climbing I’ve come across in the outdoors!

The incredibly positive holds and slight overhangs create a perfect place to push yourself and take relatively safe lead falls. I broke the barrier on multiple climbing grades here, as the difficulty generally arises from the pump rather than the moves.

Recommended Climbs at Malibu Creek

There are a few different areas to choose from when rock climbing in Malibu Creek.

Stumbling Blocks is shady almost all day and boasts fun 5.5 to 5.10 climbing, namely Monkey Mayhem 5.5, Prow 5.9, and Guerilla Drilla 5.10a.

Power Wall is perfect for the leader breaking into 5.10s, and boasts two 5.9s that share an anchor as well as an incredibly fun and pumpy 5.10b called Power Station and 5.10d called Rolling Blackout—two of my favorite climbs anywhere.

For those who are determined to lead their first 5.11a, Johnny Can’t Lead on Ghetto Wall is perfect. Personally, no move feels harder than a 10c, but the overhung jugs might have you resting after every clip! However, it’s important to note that you might have to swim across a small pool to get there if the “boat” is missing!

Approaching the Crags

That brings us to the approach. Most of the approach is relatively easy depending where you park. You’ll walk along well-maintained trails and roads.

After entering the canyon, you’ll navigate your way along the creek by boulder-hopping/climbing/scrambling on monster-sized boulders, as well as the occasional swim/wade to reach the deeper crags.

The first thing you’ll want to decide is through which end you would like to access the horseshoe-shaped canyon.

Lower Access/Rock Pool Traverse:

To access most of the crags, you will enter the canyon on the lower end of the horseshoe via the rock pool traverse, the crux of which is about 5.6 and a few feet over fairly deep water. I’ve done it barefoot, but you could always throw on the climbing shoes the first time.

When you reach the rock pool, the traverse is on the left of the pool, and will grant you access to most of the crags. The first area you will encounter after crossing the traverse is Stumbling Blocks, which is up and to the left in a narrow canyon that shoots off from the main canyon.

Upper Access/Century Lake Dam:

To access Power Wall or any crags on the upper end of the horseshoe, you will have to hike to Century Lake Dam and finagle your way up and over the dam on the far left side which will grant you access to a small climbers’ trail, or hike/swim the very long way around from the rock pools.

Hiking the entire horseshoe can be a days’ activity in itself, so I wouldn’t recommend that.

Where to Park

After choosing a crag to climb, the next step is deciding where to park. You have three options:

You can park in the paid state park lot for a small fee (about $12 as of 2022) and start walking down the main trailhead. This fairly flat trail is about one mile from the rock pool.
You can park for free on Mulholland Highway at the Grasslands Trailhead. This trail has a few hills, but is mostly flat and joins up with the main trail. You will be hiking about 1.3 miles to the rock pool. Break-ins are a common occurrence here, especially on weekends.
You can park for free on Mulholland Highway at the Cistern Trail Trailhead, located 0.9 miles uphill from the Century Lake Dam, and 1.4 miles uphill from the rock pool. I’d say this option is quickest for accessing the dam.

Important Things To Note for Rock Climbing in Malibu Creek

Crowds

I can’t recommend this area enough for the type of climbing. It is very unique and fun!

However, there are only a few subareas here with small belay areas, and due to its convenient proximity to L.A., it does get very crowded on weekends with upwards of 20 people piled together at the base of each crag.

I’d highly recommend climbing here midweek if possible. After waiting 2 hours for a climb, I’ve sworn off visiting on a weekend.

As a local, I cherish that kind of flexibility. That being said, I’d rather go on a weekend than skip it completely if a weekend is the only option, because it’s just that fun!

Weather

Wintertime temperatures are perfect, and generally in the 50s-70s. Summertime temperatures can consistently be above 90°, and the approach is very exposed.

Luckily, there are shady crags like Stumbling Blocks, and you can take a dip in the rock pool or up at Century Lake Dam.

Poison Oak

Poison oak exists almost everywhere along coastal California where there is shade and water nearby. Rock climbing in Malibu Creek is no exception.

There are clumps of it here and there once you’re near the water, and it’s sometimes hard to spot, so make sure you keep an eye out.

Necessary Gear for Rock Climbing in Malibu Creek State Park

You will need standard sport climbing gear for rock climbing in Malibu Creek State Park. Most routes have mussey hooks or other hardware you can clip for an easy clean, but some still only have chains or rap rings.

Please don’t top-rope through fixed gear. In general, two draws will do unless you plan on extensive top-roping. I tend to swap out wire-gates for lockers for added safety.

As far as I know, a 60m rope will do for everything here.

Additionally, a waterproof bag might be beneficial for accessing crags deeper in the canyon and for high water years.

Camping at Malibu Creek State Park

There is a campground in Malibu Creek State Park which is located about a mile from the rock pool, and is a convenient location to spend the night after rock climbing in Malibu Creek all day. More information on camping, movie history, and other things to do can be found here:

Camping and other related information

Movie history and other things to do

Day 2: Sunset Climbing 100ft over the Pacific at Point Dume State Beach

After sneaking a couple more routes in at Malibu Creek, you’ll want to start making your way down to the beach. I’d recommend taking the scenic route west on Mulholland Highway, and grabbing a bite at one of these iconic locations along the way before heading south on Kanan Road to the beach.

Old Place: Straight out of an old Western, this restaurant boasts hearty American dining.

Rock Store: Biker hangout with dining Friday through Monday

The Malibu Cafe: Very cute (dare I say hipster) cafe with spacious outdoor dining

If you get an earlier start, I’d recommend taking a wine tour with Malibu Wine Tours. They offer unique wine tasting tours via hike, wine tours via 4×4, or wine tours via VW bus that will take you through an expansive winery in the heart of the Santa Monica Mountains. The wine safari is popular amongst locals.

Approach for Point Dume

After lunch, make your way down to Point Dume State Beach. You will want to drive along the base of the cliff rather than the top.

The entrance for the parking lot is to the left of Zuma Beach down Westward Beach Road. Drive all the way down past the pay station, and park at the end of the lot.

Make sure to check the closing time for the parking lot. Usually, it closes just after sunset, and they do come around and tow if you stay into the night.

At the end of the parking lot, you will see a magnificent 100 foot cliff towering over the ocean. This is your next climbing destination, and the perfect place to watch the sunset!

Though you can spot rusty bolts on the face, this location is TOP-ROPE ONLY and only the anchors are safe to use. Don’t let that deter you— the view is worth it!

Where else can you sunbathe, climb, and take a dip in the ocean all in one place? I once spotted a migrating gray whale from the top!

The routes on the north face (facing the parking lot) are low angle and slabby in nature and range from 5.6 to 5.9. The easiest is the arete which goes at 5.6.

A short walk around the corner to the west oceanside face will open up a couple more difficult routes on more featured vertical rock ranging from 5.10b (5.8ish until the very top sequence) to 5.11.

Point Dume Anchor Setup

To access the top, you will take a short hike up the hill and out onto the point. The trailhead is obvious. You will pass it on the left before reaching the base of the cliff.

Once up top, you will see a few sets of anchor bolts scattered about. Although the anchor bolts are maintained, due to the salt and spray, I’d recommend using a 3-point anchor where available.

It’s also good to note that you will need to extend your anchor at least 6 feet over the edge on the north face to reduce rope drag, so plan to bring a long (~20ft) cordalette/webbing for that setup.

If you choose not to extend the anchors, you will face debilitating friction that might make it impossible to pull the rope in either direction.

You can get away with less material for the west face, as the bolts are closer to the edge.

A 60m rope will only just reach the sand, so if you plan to rappel, make sure to tie knots at the end.

Additionally, since you belay right off the sand, I’d highly recommend bringing a tarp to save your rope and climbing shoes from the wet sand. That sea spray smells great at the beach, but not so great a week later.

Night 2: Camping in Malibu

There are 3 campgrounds I’d recommend for night 2: Leo Carillo State Park Campground, Sycamore Canyon Campground, and Thornhill Broome Campground. All 3 are great options and offer beach access. Regardless, you can’t go wrong!

Thornhill Broome: A series of parking spaces adjacent to the sand with picnic tables and fire pits. This is the only campground right on the sand.

Sycamore Canyon: The best option if you’d like to include a bit of mountain biking or hiking on your trip.

Leo Carillo: The best if you’re looking for a good surf break and a little rocky sea cave.

Day 3: Coastal Crack Bouldering at Mugu Rock

For your 3rd day, you can keep it chill and do a bit of bouldering at Mugu rock. Brush up on your crack climbing at this unique roadside boulder. The cracks range from 5.8 to 5.11.

If the height is too intimidating, there are bolts up top to set a short top-rope and rope up. You can walk up on the right side. Again, to set a top-rope, you must extend the anchor over the edge, so you will need that 20ft length of cordalette once again.

Where to Eat in Malibu

After three days of rock climbing in Malibu, I’d recommend hitting up Neptune’s Net— an iconic biker bar specializing in seafood. For an extra special view, get your lunch to go and drive 4 miles northwest on PCH, hike up the giant sand dune and take in your last view of Malibu before heading out of town.

Here are some other great places to eat if you stay an extra day or two.

Quick Bites: