Located in the Mojave Desert only 20 minutes south of Barstow, California, New Jack City sits inconspicuously hidden within Sawtooth Canyon Campground. Comprised of unique and featured metamorphic rock, this rock climbers’ playground is home to over 400 sport climbing routes!
Whether I’m stopping in for a quick climb to break up the drive from L.A. to Las Vegas, peeling off for a day of winter climbing during a Big Bear ski trip, or staying a few days on a designated New Jack City rock climbing trip, I always have fun at this lesser-known climbing spot!
Why is New Jack City the BEST Winter Sport Crag?
California has a lot of sport climbing areas to choose from, so what makes New Jack City rock climbing better than the rest? Easy access, unique climbing, and free camping are definitely all contributors. Below are some of the reasons I keep coming back every winter!
Winter Temperatures are Perfect for a New Jack City Rock Climbing Trip
During the summertime, temperatures soar over 100°F on the regular, but wintertime temperatures usually hover between 55°F and 65°F, which is my favorite climbing weather. Occasionally, storms will blow through, but most days are sunny. On calm winter days, I don’t even need a jacket! However, on windy days, the dry high desert air will definitely give you a chill. Luckily there are plenty of sunny crags (keep reading!) to keep you warm!
The Rock is SO COOL....and Warm!
I have never seen rock quite like the rock at New Jack. Reminiscent of schist, the dark rock swirls with huecos and dikes which make for really interesting climbing. You can find both slab and overhang on the same climb requiring both power and finesse. It’s hard to explain, so you should really just check it out for yourself! Plus, it’s dark and warm which is ordinarily not my favorite, but in the winter it’s really soothing and keeps my fingers from going numb on cold rock.
Convenient + Isolated Location in the High Desert
Although this climbing area is in a bit of a random spot in the desert, it’s just far enough to feel isolated from society, but just close enough to make a great road trip stop! On a road trip trip from Los Angeles to Las Vegas (or Red Rocks), it’s only 20 minutes from Highway 15. I often stop here for a quick climb before continuing on. On a longer trip, it’s easy to make a day of it and stay the night in the campground.
New Jack is also a great place to dip out of Big Bear for a day while on a ski trip. It’s under an hour from Big Bear Lake, but feels worlds away! I love the change of pace and it’s nice to get a little sun after a few days of being bundled up in the snow. Although Big Bear has it’s own rad climbing spot in Holcomb Valley, it’s always a bit warmer down the hill.
Most Approaches are 5 Minutes or Less
Don’t bother packing for a full day adventure because at least half of the crags are closer than a five minute approach! There are even a few crags in the Entrance Area where you can literally belay from your car. This also means that any crags further than this stay relatively uncrowded for those wanting a bit more isolation.
Camping is Easy and Free in Sawtooth Canyon Campground!
One of the biggest perks of a New Jack City rock climbing trip is the easy access to free campsites literally feet from the climbs. Sawtooth Canyon Campground is a BLM campground home to 13 free campsites with picnic tables and fire rings as well as a couple of pit toilets. Please use them! Make sure to pack in water and toilet paper and pack out all trash. Please take care of the place so we can all keep using it in the future!
If the campsites are full (common on weekends), you can always find dispersed camping across Highway 247!
New Jack City Rock Climbing: My Favorite Crags
Now that you’re convinced, let’s start planning your rock climbing trip to New Jack City!
Don’t forget to pick up the latest guidebook!
My Favorite Sunny Crags for the Cold Days
Let’s be honest, even though it rarely dips below freezing, winter in the California high desert can be a bit chilly! On the colder days of my New Jack City rock climbing trips, I tend to gravitate towards these sunny crags:
Sunnyside: A Nice Warm-Up
As the name suggests, this crag is nice and warm in the wintertime! With seven climbs under 5.10, it’s the perfect place to thaw out and get your muscles moving. There is even a nice 5.4 for the beginning leader or any kids in the group!
**Pro Tip: Check out my Top 10 Beginner Rock Climbs in New Jack City (5.4 – 5.7).
Raven Rocks South + West: Chasing the Sun
Raven Rocks is one of my favorite crags because you can easily find your preferred amount of shade regardless when you climb. On cooler mornings, warm up on Custom Tailored (5.7) and Taylor Made (5.8) at Raven Rocks South. Then, move onto the sunny west wall and climb Welcome to New Jack City (5.10a). When you’re warm enough, head into the shady north wall and climb Holey Moley (5.10a) and Espresso (5.10c)!
White Face: Sunny Moderates Close to Camp
White Face is my favorite sunny option for a quick climb close to camp. I like White Head (5.9) and White Out (5.10b). Although moderate, they are quite pumpy which is an awesome way to warm up on a chilly winter day!
Other Noteworthy Crags to Add to Your New Jack City Rock Climbing Trip
Below are a few more crags to keep in mind should the day be warmer or busier than anticipated.
Best Crags for Hot Days
My favorite shady crags for hot days are Raven Rocks North (as mentioned previously), Boy Scout Wall, and Valentine Wall. All three are super close to parking areas and all three boast a wide range of difficulty, though Raven Rocks North is definitely the most challenging.
Best Crags to Avoid Crowds
If it’s a warm Saturday in January, you might roll up to New Jack and find every campsite full and ropes up on nearly every climb you see. Unfortunately, even this obscure climbing area gets pretty busy on the weekends as climbers flock from the city and the mountains. Luckily there are a few crags where you’ll generally find a route or two available. As a rule of thumb, the further you have to walk to the crag, the fewer climbers will be there.
For super beginner climbs in the 5.5-5.6 range, try Caprica. Though you can drive right up to this crag, the easy ratings keep crowds at bay. For more challenging climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.11, check out White Streaked Face just around the corner!
There are also a number of newly developed crags of varying quality that aren’t in any guidebook. If you have an adventurous spirit, you’re sure to find something available no matter how crowded it is!
Planning a New Jack City Rock Climbing Trip
I love New Jack City rock climbing trips because they are just so easy to plan and I always have an awesome time! However, there are a few important things to note before you hop in the car in hopes of epic winter sport climbing.
Bring Plenty of Water
With its sun shades, fire pits, BBQs, toilets, and picnic tables, Sawtooth Canyon Campground offers much more than the average free BLM campground. However, there is no water nearby, nor is there always toilet paper in the bathrooms, so be sure to bring enough with you. The high desert is super dry, so make sure you pack more water than you think you’ll need!
Campsites Fill Up Quickly on Weekends
There are only 13 first-come first-served sites throughout all of Sawtooth Canyon Campground and they tend to fill up quickly on weekends. Last time, we arrived at 11am on a Tuesday and there were only three sites left! Consider arriving early in the morning or prepare to look for a dispersed site across the highway. You’ll see people camping in non-designated sites within the campground, but this is technically against the rules, so best practice is to find a dispersed site elsewhere and minimize your impact.
Nights Get Cold
I mean, this one is pretty obvious, but in the desert, temperatures drop quickly after sunset and heat up quickly after sunrise, so pack lots of layers—especially if you’d like to try some night climbing! There’s nothing like climbing under the Milky Way!
The Rock Can Be Chossy, So Bring Your Helmet!
Certain crags are worse than others, but it’s good practice for both the climber and belayer to wear a helmet here, especially on lesser climbed crags further from the parking area. However, I’ve encountered my fair share of crumbly loose blocks on popular climbs too.
Phone Service is Spotty at Best
If you have some luck and phone service with Verizon, you might have spotty service. I usually have neither which means I generally lose service as soon as I turn off of Highway 247.
Check with Barstow BLM for any Updates or Restrictions
Before your trip, check for updates and closures for Barstow BLM. If necessary, grab a free campfire permit here too!
Getting to New Jack City: Driving Directions
The easiest way to get to New Jack is to input Sawtooth Canyon Campground into your preferred map. If you need it spelled out, drive to Barstow, get on Highway 247 (Barstow Road) headed south, drive for 15 minutes (15 miles) then turn right onto a large dirt road that leads to the campground after a couple miles. Large rocks are a good sign that you’ve ended up at the right place!
Road Conditions
The road leading to the campground is unpaved, but it’s a very well-maintained road. I always see RVs and campers make it back with no difficulty, so any normal street car will make it back just fine!
I hope you have an awesome time exploring one of my favorite sport climbing spots! If you have any questions about trip planning or want to let me know your favorite climbs, drop a message below. If you found this article helpful, be sure to subscribe to be the first to read my latest posts!