There’s nothing better than that pre-trip feeling. You’ve spent months in the climbing gym pulling on plastic and weekends outside at your local crag (if you’re lucky enough to have one!). You’ve seen the coolest sends on social media and have saved up the money and vacation time to finally make it happen: your own rock climbing trip. Your own sends on your dream routes. Only one thing stands in your way— the #1 mistake we all make when planning a rock climbing trip:
Our own expectations.
Whether you are looking to plan your very first rock climbing trip or have a few under your belt, hopefully these tips will help you plan a rock climbing trip you’ll always remember— for the right reasons.
1. Expecting Friends to Prioritize a Rock Climbing Trip
The following story has happened to me time and time again:
I am stoked for an upcoming rock climbing trip. I want to share the stoke with all my friends that climb, so I send out some invites and receive a lot of stoke in return! I begin looking for accommodation for the number of people who say they’re down. When it comes time to get a final count and collect money for the place, I hear a lot of crickets and “sorry, ___ came up and I can’t go anymore!” or “I’ve decided to just camp instead to save money” and I end up footing the bill for those who back out.
What to Do Instead: Don't Mistake Interest for Commitment
We climbers are a highly stoked but notoriously flakey bunch. Rock climbing is so accessible that it’s easy to grab our gear and go at the last second— a major perk of the sport. However, this results in greater flakiness than sports that require more of a financial commitment. And, as it turns out, most of my climbing friends don’t prioritize rock climbing (or the comfort of a nice bed) in the same way I do. And that’s okay! Usually, there are a core few that fully commit and we all have an awesome time, but it’s a huge mistake to interpret original interest as commitment.
The best way to avoid taking the hit for those that back out last minute is to avoid booking accommodation without the option for a full refund. Now, I will only personally book accommodation for a full group if I can get all of my money back up to a week out. This gives me time to pin down who is actually coming. If this isn’t an option, I will look for free/cheap camping alternatives instead. This not only gives me the option to rebook a smaller place/campsite if friends flake, but also allows me to be flexible with the climbing location if the weather takes a turn for the worst. This brings me to my next mistake.
2. Expecting Perfect Weather Conditions for Climbing
Due to the constant onslaught of professional photos of the top rock climbers on social media, we tend to only see certain routes on their best days and therefore tend to expect ideal conditions while we are climbing. This is rarely the case.
It’s pretty challenging to tell whether it’s below freezing or above 100°F in any given photo. For example, in Bishop, California, temperatures can range from 20°F to 100°F within a matter of weeks. Additionally, a rogue thunderstorm might wreak havoc on your chosen sandstone crag, leaving it unclimbable for days.
On a smaller scale, you might have lower energy on the super hot or super cold days. Even though the professional climber is accustomed to the temperature and posts a video shirtless, it might only be 30°F. This might be perfect weather for sending a 5.14, but may not be ideal for a week of camping in the mountains. On the flip side, even north-facing routes may be very hot with the sun directly overhead during the summer and leave you both burnt and burnt out after the first day.
What to Do Instead: Do Your Research
Unfortunately, you can’t always predict the weather when you make the plan, but these are all factors that will affect your rock climbing trip. However, there are a few ways to ensure your trip runs smoothly:
- Research the typical weather patterns for the area ahead of time, and plan for the appropriate time of year.
- Pack layers and sun protection in case the weather is hotter, cooler, or windier than expected.
- Use Mountain Project’s sun angle feature for a rough estimate.
- Be flexible with the climbing location in case the weather is uncooperative. I like to find a nearby crag that’s either higher or lower in elevation in case the temperature is not what I expected, or a different rock type in case it rains. In the summer, make a list of shady backup crags in case the first option isn’t quite as protected as you’d expected. Lastly, don’t be afraid to divert to Plan B instead of insisting on having a miserable time at the original climbing location.
3. Expecting Unwavering Energy and Stoke
We spend so much time and energy planning our rock climbing trip which usually includes a long list of goals we expect to accomplish. We all have goals on goals on goals: goals for sending climbing routes, goals for number of crags we can hit, goals for how hard we want to send. It’s great to have goals until the goals prevent us from experiencing our rock climbing trip to its fullest extent. More is not always better, especially when climbing in a new place on new rock. Here are some common mistakes climbers make on their first rock climbing trip to a new area.
Too Many Climbs on the To-Do List
If you’re like me, you scan mountain project in your free time, adding climb after climb to the ever-growing to-do list. Some are well within your range, but many are most likely just at or above your limit. This only becomes a problem when you expect to send (or even try) dozens of climbs in your five-day rock climbing trip. Although it is technically possible to complete six challenging climbs on your best day in perfect conditions, it’s not going to happen for five days straight in a new place where you don’t have any experience with the climbing style. Setting unattainable expectations like this will leave you feeling disappointed at the end of your rock climbing trip and will quickly kill your stoke.
What to Do Instead: Pick a Few Favorites and a Few Back-Ups
I will usually make a long tick-list of climbs I hope to complete spanning many different difficulties, areas, and crags. Then, I begin looking at how I can group them into nearby areas that are realistic to do in a day. I usually choose two nearby crags to check out each day. Next, I begin narrowing down the list. Maybe choose one or two goals for the day and throw in some easier ones if you have extra time and energy. Usually, I only end up feeling up for half of the number of climbs I intend to do for the day, but occasionally I’ll feel up for a couple more. However, be sure to keep the other half as a back-up in case your first choice for the day is too crowded, too sunny, etc.
Jumping Straight on Hard Climbs
It’s natural to want to start working on your goals right away, but without a proper warm-up, you will probably just end up frustrated and maybe even injured. You haven’t even given yourself the chance to get to know the rock or climbing style yet, so your chances of sending are greatly reduced.
What to Do Instead: Use the First Day of your Rock Climbing Trip as a Warm-Up Day
I like to spend the first day of any rock climbing trip acclimating to the crag— especially if I’ve never climbed there before. I’ll pick a few diverse climbs in a couple nearby areas, maxing out at the grade I can consistently onsight. This way, I can fit in a higher volume of climbs which will warm up my muscles and allow me to adjust to the terrain and climbing style. As a result, I feel much more confident trying hard on subsequent days.
Avoiding Rest Days Like the Plague
Time is limited and you are already having a tough time fitting everything in. The thought of a rest day just sounds ludicrous. However, by day three, your skin hurts and a midday nap is sounding way nicer than jumping on that project. Trust me, I’ve been there. When I’m sitting comfortably at home, I definitely tend to underestimate how zonked I’m going to feel after days of trying hard in the outdoors.
What to Do Instead: Take a Break!
If the rock climbing trip is longer than a weekend, I will incorporate a rest day. For me, this can materialize in a few different ways. On a week-long rock climbing trip (like my recent trip to Red Rocks, Nevada), usually I will take a full day of rest around day three or so and just take time to explore the local area. On a four-day to five-day trip (like my trip to Joshua Tree), I will take a pseudo-rest day, during which I will still go climb, but I will only climb well-rated/fun-looking climbs far below my max. These can include easy sport climbs or boulders, or even a moderate traditional multi-pitch route where the experience and vibe are totally different. On a 7+ day trip (like my two week road trip through New Zealand), I’ll take a short multi-day break in the middle and definitely get in some exploring while I rest my fingers and toes!
How to Structure your Rock Climbing Trip
Step-by-Step Rock Climbing Trip Planning Guide
For those of you who love a good checklist, below I’ll walk you through the steps I personally take to plan a rock climbing trip using my last trip to Red Rocks, Nevada as an example.
1. Pick a climbing location and back-up location that requires a similar length of time to visit.
I’ve chosen Red Rocks, Nevada as my primary location. However, I know it can get HOT there, and it’s sandstone, so I’ll choose Bishop, California as my back-up because I’ve been wanting to climb there as well, it’s about the same driving distance to get there, I have options at a higher elevation in case the weather is too hot, and much of the rock is granite which is less affected by rain.
2. Research the climbing location and pick a time of year to go.
I’ve planned my rock climbing trip in May because the weather in Red Rocks will most likely be an acceptable temperature, it’s the only time my climbing partner can go, and although there is a greater risk of rain, let’s be honest, I don’t want to wait until fall. Upon doing research, I’ve realized I need to reserve an entry time the day before if I plan to arrive after 8am. I also discovered it can be quite comfortable or hot in May, so I’ll choose a few shady and a few sunny crags I’d like to climb at. (Upon nearing the date, it seems as if it will be about 80°F, steering me towards shady routes.)
3. Determine the number of days you need for said location. Add two.
Based on travel time and number of areas I’d like to check out, I’ll need at least five days. Now let’s make it seven to account for rest and warm-up days. I now have two half days and five full days— one of which will be a warm-up and another of which will be a rest day— allotted for this rock climbing trip.
4. Narrow down your main goals for your rock climbing trip to one per day.
There are SO MANY routes I want to climb, but I realistically only have three days to try really hard, so I’ll pick a hard sport climbing crag, a hard traditional climb, and a long adventure climb (a long multi-pitch at my exertion limit). My #1 goal is the 5.7 adventure climb (since that’s what Red Rocks is famous for), but I really want to see what hard sport climbs feel like there (in the 5.10 range), and I’d like to see if I can lead a 5.8 trad route! Luckily, my goals are diverse and some present more of a mental challenge which will help my skin and muscles recover.
5. Add in your warm-up and cool-down climbs, as well as back-up climbs/crags to account for crowds and weather.
This is pretty self explanatory, but I’ll fill in the gaps with some 5.6 and 5.7 trad routes, shorter multi-pitches, and shady sport crags with options around 5.8 and 5.9 sprinkled in.
6. Add your hardest goals somewhere in the middle, and place a rest day before it. The energy won't be right for sending the first or last days of your trip.
I’ll put my toughest goals on days four and six with a rest day in the middle to recover.
7. Invite friends whose goals align with yours, and find accommodation that offers a full refund if people inevitably flake. Or find nearby dispersed camping options if the weather permits.
I’ll invite a main partner and other trad climbing friends for the weekdays where I have specific routes in mind and don’t want a crowd, then a big group of sport climbers for the weekend where know we will have to battle crowds, but am more flexible with my climbing goals. I’ll rely on free dispersed camping near Lovell Canyon until a week in advance when I’ll see if there is still space at Red Rock Canyon Campground (much closer) for a few nights, depending how many people commit.
Approximately eight people expressed interest over the weekend at first, but in the end, I only climbed with Lindsay—my main climbing partner—for the entire trip and one other friend Vanessa (plus her son Aidan) over the weekend. Because so few showed up, I reserved the last spot at the campground over the weekend and Lindsay and I got to spend the rest of our nights as guests at my friend’s house just down the road! This wouldn’t have been possible if I’d hastily booked accommodation right away.
8. Create a packing list with lots of layers and sun protection.
This is self-explanatory, but you need to figure out what to wear ahead of time. Personally, my most useful article of clothing I packed was a long sleeve hooded sun shirt which was critical for blocking the sun midday and for keeping me warm in the evening. Liquid IV in the water bladder also came in clutch for when a climb wasn’t as shady as anticipated.
9. Keep an eye on the weather conditions. Make the decision roughly one week out if you will stay the course or divert to Plan B!
I had my eye on the weather forecast like a hawk, and I kept weighing the options between Bishop and Red Rocks. The weather at Red Rocks was forecasted to be a tad warm with a chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon later in the week, but the stoke was high and I was willing to sacrifice a day of climbing if it rained, which it did on our second to last day. Luckily, by that point we had climbed as much as we could handle and were satisfied with the rock climbing trip as a whole!
10. Finalize your schedule, but leave room for flexibility.
Our finalized schedule looked like this before we’d departed:
- Half-day warm-up. Get used to multi-pitch efficiency and rock quality.
- Physical Graffiti (2 pitches, trad, 5.6, bolted anchors)
- Big Bad Wolf (3 pitches, sport, 5.9)
- Full-day warm-up on a slightly more challenging trad multi-pitch. Practice building gear anchors.
- Pillar Talk (2 pitches, trad, 5.7, one gear anchor)
- Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (1 pitch, trad, 5.7, gear anchor)
- Pseudo rest day. Chill vibe, shady sport climbs, friends choose location.
- Stepping it up. 5.8 trad + 5.10+ sport.
- Great Red Book (2 pitches, trad, 5.8)
- Sport climb somewhere shady with 5.10s, black corridor?
- Full rest day, explore Las Vegas!
- Dark Shadows (4 pitches, trad, 5.8, SHADE, bolted anchors) or Tunnel Vision (6 pitches, trad, 5.7, gear anchors?)
- Half-day cool-down. Climb whatever we’ve missed or found along the way!
Hindsight is 20/20
Our actual trip looked like this:
- Half-day warm-up. Get used to multi-pitch efficiency and rock quality. (Most pitches in a day, EXHAUSTED, whoops.)
- Physical Graffiti (2 pitches, trad, 5.6, bolted anchors)
- Big Bad Wolf (3 pitches, sport, 5.9)
- Full-day warm-up on a slightly more challenging trad multi-pitch. Practice building gear anchors. (Most challenging climb of the rock climbing trip! No way am I leading a trad 5.8 or 6 pitch 5.7 on this trip LOL).
- Pillar Talk (2 pitches, trad, 5.7, one gear anchor)
- Chocolate Tranquility Fountain (1 pitch, trad, 5.7, gear anchor)
- Quick hike and rinse in Lost Creek Canyon Falls
- Pseudo rest day. Chill vibe, shady sport 5.8s and 5.9s at Classic Rock Wall.
- Stepping it up slightly. More shady sport climbing at Cannibal Crag. 5.8 through 5.10a.
- Full rest day, explore Las Vegas!
- Cookie Monster (first 2 pitches, trad, 5.7). Initially planned to link with Cat in the Hat, but THUNDER, so we bailed. Feet hit the ground at the same time as the raindrops. Drove home that afternoon— a day early but content because wet sandstone is a no-go.
At the end of our rock climbing trip, a lot of things had changed and I hadn’t really achieved many of the original climbing goals I had made for myself, but guess what! I still had an amazing time and looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing. Since I had such an amazing time, you can bet I’m already making my to-do list for my next trip to Red Rocks. Check out our struggles and sends below!
How to Plan the Best Rock Climbing Trip:
Shifting your Perspective
At this point, I’ve planned quite a few rock climbing trips. Some have flowed better than others, but I have had a great time regardless because I came into each of them with an open mind and low expectations. By this, I mean I based the trips’ successes on quality rather than quantity, on memories rather than achievements.
To be honest, I barely remember the moves I made, where I rested, or which climbs I completed, but I remember the good vibes sitting around the fire, growing closer to good friends, the smell of pine trees with an incredible view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the warm sun on my skin as I watched friends try hard, sitting at the top of a cliff watching the sun set during a warm summer evening, etc.
I’ve learned that the key to a successful trip is shifting my perspective.
Instead of hinging the success of the rock climbing trip on your accomplishments, base it on the experience as a whole. Focus on the relationships and memories you make, the joint struggles and successes, and the overall feeling of exploring a new place. We often get tunnel vision (no pun intended) for specific goals and miss the big picture. Lofty expectations prevent us from experiencing our rock climbing trip to its fullest extent. Even if you send nothing but the warm-up, you have put so much time and energy into visiting this new place, so you should enjoy every bit of it!
Plan Your Rock Climbing Trip Now!
Now that you know how to plan a rock climbing trip, it’s time to get started! Check out these awesome guides for some inspiration.
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