Only six miles, 2,600′ of elevation gain, and five stunning alpine lakes lie between the unassuming Kearsarge Pass Trailhead at Onion Valley and Kearsarge Lakes which sit just on the other side of the 11,760′ Kearsarge Pass.Â
Kearsarge Lakes are a destination on their own, but most don’t stop here. They are also the logical first camp for backpackers on their way to Rae Lakes and 60 Lakes Basin (like us). Kearsarge Pass Trail is also a beautiful resupply option for many hiking the PCT and JMT. Â
Don’t let the hardcore thru-hikers fool you though. This hike is TOUGH and made even tougher if you decide to push on over Glenn Pass (11,926′) down into Rae Lakes or 60 Lakes Basin like we did. So far in the Sierras, I’ve backpacked Duck Lake Loop in Inyo National Forest and Lakes Trail to Pear Lake in Sequoia National Park, and this has been toughest by FAR.
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Why Did We Choose Kearsarge Lakes?
The Sierras are incredible, but Kearsarge Lakes was just one potential option within Inyo National Forest. It was not our first choice, mainly because of the total distance and elevation gain.
Our first choice was Big Pine Lakes, but I book trips last minute due to weather and my work schedule, so only 10 permits were available at 7am two weeks in advance. My phone was apparently too slow to load, and someone had snagged them before I could scroll down and push book.
Our second choice was Kearsarge Lakes. I honestly hadn’t done a ton of research, but the permit-booking panic set in and I booked them right away before these could sell out too. Only after booking them did I make a specific plan and realize the challenge we were undertaking.
Since we were already making the effort, I wanted to push on to Rae Lakes and 60 Lakes Basin too, for a total of 29.7 miles and 7,314′ of elevation gain round trip.
Despite the challenge, we planned to complete the Salkantay Trek in the Peruvian high Andes two months later which includes multiple 14+ mile days and a 15,000′ pass, so we figured this would be good training.
How to Book Permits for Kearsarge Lakes + Rae Lakes + 60 Lakes Basin
Kearsarge Pass Trailhead falls within the John Muir Wilderness area of Inyo National Forest, and you’ll need a permit for your planned day of entry for Kearsarge Pass. The forest service does a great job of updating their website with all the information you need for a successful backpacking adventure. They do NOT, however, monitor their phone lines very well.Â
After crossing Kearsarge Pass, you’ll enter the Kings Canyon National Park boundary, which has its own set of regulations. Make sure to read up on both Inyo National Forest and Kings Canyon National Park regulations and fire restrictions before you go.
For example, fires are always prohibited on most of Kearsarge Pass Trail and Rae Lakes area because they lie above 10,000 feet in elevation, bear canisters are always required in Kings Canyon National Park but bear spray is prohibited, and there are areas along the trail/near certain lakes where camping is prohibited or there are night limits, so make sure to do your research before booking your trip.
Click on the links below for more information:
When to Backpack Kearsarge Lakes + Rae Lakes + 60 Lakes Basin
I’d personally say late August or September is the best time to backpack Kearsarge Pass Trail, though it usually opens in June and stays open until a heavy fall snowstorm makes it impassable.Â
Mosquitos are a nightmare in the Sierras from the second the snow melts until about mid-August, and I get eaten alive, so I prefer to avoid June and July. During late summer/early fall, it might dip below freezing at night above 10,000′, but I prefer to bring thermal pjs, a 0° sleeping bag, and a Nalgene of boiling water to combat the cold since fires are illegal. Still better than hundreds of swarming mosquitos.
Additionally, I didn’t want to worry about residual spring snow on trail. However, the weather can be unpredictable in early fall. On this trip, (September 4th – 7th) the weather was actually pretty good.Â
The week before we arrived, it rained for days. The week after we completed the trip, the smoke got so bad from a nearby fire that many thru-hikers had to evacuate due to air quality issues. During the trip, we had afternoon thunderstorms and a bit of hazy smoke, but nothing too bad.
No matter what time of year you visit, the high Sierras are unpredictable, so flexibility is key.
Day 1: Backpacking Kearsarge Pass Trail
Hiking Onion Valley to Kearsarge Lakes
The first day backpacking in the Sierras is always rough. The packs are always at their heaviest, we are never acclimated to the elevation and the hiking is always straight uphill. Luckily, it only gets easier from here! Ideally, I’d recommend spending a night at Onion Valley Campground to acclimate, but we just drove up from sea level and sent it over 11,700′ (cue the altitude headaches).
We were moving pretty consistently and were right on schedule for lunch and a water refill at Gilbert Lake, the second of five as we trudged along up the pass. We didn’t need to carry as much water as we did— there was river access within about a mile of the trailhead. After Gilbert Lake though, filling water would have been cumbersome as the trail continues much higher than the rest of the lakes.
We kept hiking up and up and up and eventually topped out Kearsarge Pass after five miles and 2,600′ of continuous uphill. Here, we took a breather and appreciated the breathtaking view before crossing the border into Kings Canyon National Park and descending another couple miles down to Kearsarge Lakes below.
Finding a Campsite at Kearsarge Lakes
Kearsarge Lakes are quite busy. We passed at least a dozen other backpackers before finding a secluded site past everyone else. There are honestly plenty of sites around the expansive four lakes that make up Kearsarge Lakes, so it’s not hard to find a spot.
Unfortunately, right after we’d finished setting up camp, a party of six decided to camp roughly 30ft from us— close enough we could hear them snoring all night. Next time I’d just keep walking around to the back lake and maybe cross a bit of water where it would hopefully be a bit less enticing for late-evening arrivals.
Day 2: Kearsarge Lakes to Rae Lakes
Hiking Bullfrog Lake Trail to John Muir Trail
We started hiking late because Kearsarge Lakes were so stunning. The next section of trail from Kearsarge Lakes to Bullfrog Lake was my second favorite section on the trip, just behind 60 Lakes Basin Trail. This section was relatively flat with lots of greenery: my favorite type of backpacking trail.
Hiking the John Muir Trail from Bullfrog Lake to Glen Pass
After cruising along at 10,600′, it was time to begin another uphill slog. Except this time, Luke began to get a migraine halfway up at the same time we began to hear thunder up near the pass. Fueled by a strong desire to get up and over the pass as quickly as possible, he found the strength to push through and we crested Glen Pass at 11,926′.
A Change of Plans
Our original plan was to leave the trail and navigate cross-country over Rae Col into 60 Lakes Basin. Due to the current circumstances, we decided to lose as much elevation as we could as quickly as we could and instead camp at Rae Lakes.Â
With thunder crashing ever closer, we descended 1,400′ and set up camp right as the skies opened up. By late evening, the rain had stopped just in time to cook some dinner and watch the sunset.
As the clouds cleared, we noticed a significant cloud of smoke, not just haze but actual thick smoke moving in over the valley in the distance. Luckily, I brought my Garmin Inreach so I could text my dad and keep track of the fire’s location and current evacuation zones. I wouldn’t even consider backpacking without it.
Day 3: Exploring 60 Lakes Basin
Based on the fire update from my dad and Luke’s migraine recovery, we decided against pushing camp further into 60 Lakes Basin and opted for a day trip instead. The hike was roughly 700′ of elevation gain and led us through one of the prettiest areas I’ve seen in the Sierras!
As soon as we looked back towards Rae Col, we were relieved to have skipped it. I have no idea how we would have navigated that vaguely “class 2” descent into 60 Lakes Basin even without heavy packs.
The basin was stunning and we were the only ones there. We took a dip and enjoyed the brief sense of calm. The next day would be a huge effort.
Luckily, we didn’t see any smoke this day, though we knew it was lingering just beyond the peaks. It would have been epic to camp in 60 Lakes Basin for a few nights, but I guess we’ll just have to come back!
Day 4: Our Longest Backpacking Day Yet
We departed early, trying to avoid the thunderstorm fiasco from two days earlier. Surprisingly, we made great time and were moving quicker than anticipated. We’d left ourselves an extra day in case we needed to break up the return trip and camp at either Matlock or Kearsarge Lakes again.
Along the way, we saw a huge plume of smoke and figured continuing out was the best call. Fueled by the thought of pizza, we pushed through and hiked the 12 miles (including up and over both passes!) back to the car in 8ish hours. What an accomplishment! We felt ready for Peru (spoiler alert: it was way tougher than this for different reasons).
Kearsarge Lakes vs. Rae Lakes vs. 60 Lakes Basin: Where to Camp
Kearsarge Lakes
- 10,900′
- 6+ mile hike
- Moderately busy
Rae Lakes
- 10,600′
- 12+ mile hike
- Very busy (PCT/JMT)
- Lots of bear activity
60 Lakes Basin
- 10,700′
- 14+ mile hike
- Nobody around
It was hard to make a plan for where to camp because there are just SO MANY LAKES. We personally saw at least 30 lakes on this 14-mile journey and you can camp at literally all of them except Bullfrog Lake. Some have better campsites than others, but they are all so beautiful.
I loved all of our camps, but I probably wouldn’t stay at Rae Lakes again. It’s located right on the PCT/JMT so we heard lots of people across the lake, including one poor group who chased the same bear out of camp repeatedly for over an hour one evening.
There are just too many people at Rae Lakes for my taste, and there are much easier places to get to with far fewer people around. Our situation dictated where we stayed, but if I had the option, next time I’d definitely make the push into 60 Lakes Basin. There are lots of flat sites around the lakes and no people.
Kearsarge was a great intermediate option if 60 Lakes Basin seems like too much. I’d consider staying for a few days on a later trip because it’s worth the hike and there are lots of day hiking options (like Charlotte Lake) around since it’s near a major PCT intersection. You could even break that trip up and stay at any of the lakes on the other side of the pass like Gilbert Lake or Matlock Lakes.
Overall, you really can’t go wrong with any option. Choose the adventure that best fits your fitness and comfort level, and don’t forget your bear canister!
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