For an unremarkable multi pitch trad climber, Red Rocks is mind-blowing! It’s quickly become my favorite trad climbing destination due the long moderate multi pitch climbs that line the entire mountain range.
Intimidated by every trad route I climbed in nearby Joshua Tree, I was ecstatic when I found 5.7 climbs that actually feel 5.7! Birdland is one of those climbs, and I absolutely LOVE it!
Standing almost 600 feet tall, only five pitches of incredible multi-pitch trad climbing stand between you and the top of Birdland’s commonly-accepted route (one often-forgotten crumbly pitch lies above).
Even with a rating of 5.7+ on two pitches, I think it still feels easier than Fote Hog (5.6) in Joshua Tree, and the anchors are bolted for more efficient climbing because this is a popular route. As a result, it’s good to know what to expect before getting on the wall because chances are you’ll have climbers behind you.
Here is how I climb Birdland in Red Rocks, Nevada.
Climb Birdland with me!
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Necessary Gear
70m Rope (preferred)
The climb and rappel beta is very straightforward with a 70m rope. I personally only have an 80m rope, so I use that. I prefer to rappel with a single rope over doubles because of the huge chance of rope snags in Red Rocks.
Single Trad Rack + Doubles up to 0.3 BD Cams
I only use a single rack of BD cams to #4, including a set of regular nuts, a set of offset nuts, and some hexes thrown in because I love them. I’m pretty liberal with gear placements and try to stay safe, but definitely don’t sew it up like a sport climb unless I see a challenging move ahead. However, I do bring doubles to 0.3 because the first pitch takes them all!
There are a lot of places for nuts and other natural pro like wrapping chicken heads and threading holes, so I bring lots of alpine slings of different lengths because many placements require extension with the multiple traverses on this climb.
I bring two cordalettes pre-set as quad anchors in case the anchor points are uneven like at the top of pitch 1.
The last thing I add is an auto block of some sort to back up my rappel. There are always so many snags to deal with on the way down!
Additionally, I make sure my pack is as low profile as possible. For the second pitch in particular, a fat pack will really get in the way, especially if it impedes the movement of your head. I LOVE my current multi pitch pack for this reason. The hip belt and lots of pockets are a huge plus too because it allows me to bring a couple liters of water, a jacket, and snacks, and still feel comfortable leading with it.
Approach for Brass Wall
The approach takes roughly 30 minutes from the parking at Pine Creek Trailhead. Follow the right side of Pine Creek until you reach the fork that turns left and heads across the creek to Mescalito. Continue straight just past this fork to a big boulder up the hill on the right. Go up and around that boulder and you’ll find the climber’s trail that leads to the base of Birdland.
How I Climb Birdland in Red Rocks
Pitch 1 (5.6): Awesome warm-up + eats small gear
I really love this pitch! Honestly, I would hike out here just to climb this pitch if it wasn’t connected to the upper pitches. I’d feel too guilty coming back down and not finishing the rest!
It’s a really cruiser 5.6 with a ton of great face holds and a small crack that takes lots of small cams! A couple holds sound hollow, but there are usually secure options nearby.
I use almost every cam from 0.1 to 0.4, so there are a lot of options along the way, and nothing ever feels too run out. Plus, that nice morning sun warms me up in the winter which is SO nice!
Pitch 2 (5.7): A bit awkward all around
This is probably my least favorite pitch. Although I can look up and see the top of the pitch clearly (big ledge with a tree), getting there isn’t as straightforward for me. The climbing is a bit awkward as I climb up the blocky sections and gully, and reliable gear feels equally as awkward to find. None of it is too challenging, but this pitch definitely makes me think.
Pitch 3 (5.7+): Delicate traverse + burly crux
Pitch three of Birdland is characterized by a fun little ramp up to a delicate traverse followed by a lone bolt, more traverse, then a couple burly moves up over a little roof (my crux), and some more strong moves up a corner system. Finding placements is definitely a bit pumpier on this pitch, and I can see how it would be a bit more challenging for a shorter climber.
Pitch 4 (5.6): Creative placements + diagonal climbing
I find the climbing on this pitch relatively easy. The crux is climbing up and diagonally right while hoping you’re going to end up at the anchor while getting creative with the placements. This is when I break out the nuts, hexes, and slings as I traverse my way towards the belay. Personally, I find plenty of protection in the form of creative passive pro.
Pitch 5 (5.7+): Thin crimps + beautiful crack
Pitch five is the reason so many people climb Birdland! The start is a little awkward traversing to the base of the crack, but the crack is SO MUCH FUN! I love actually getting to crack climb a bit before it narrows into that beautiful smooth patina at the top.
Although it looks tougher than 5.7+, the crimps are all there and it’s relatively low angle. I use a BD 0.75 to protect the crux, then it’s over, and the rappelling saga begins!
**Pro tip: As amazing as it is up there, it’s important to be efficient because its really hard for any climbers behind you to make it through the crux with a party already at the belay.
Rappelling Birdland with a 70m Rope (preferred)
From the top, my rappel route is really straightforward. All of the belay stations are also on the rap route with the exception of the anchor at the base of pitch 3, where there is an alternate anchor more in line about 30 feet to climbers right.
The order goes top, pitch 4 anchor, pitch 3 alternate station, pitch 2 anchor, pitch 1 anchor, base of climb. Apparently an alternate to pitch 2 anchor exists but I have not found nor used it yet.
If there are a lot of climbers coming up, I’ll saddle my rope so I don’t hit them with it on the way down (especially on pitch 5), which also helps prevent snags.
Best Time of Year to Climb Birdland
I can wholeheartedly say the best season to climb Birdland is winter. Red Rocks, just outside Las Vegas, is notoriously hot in summer—frequently reaching triple digit temps for weeks on end. Birdland is in full sun, with a puny tree here or there at a belay.
Wintertime temps are usually 40-60°F which is perfect for five pitches of sunny climbing! Unfortunately, I don’t even consider this climb between April and September.
However, keep in mind the rock at Red Rocks takes days/weeks to dry enough to be safely climbed again after rain, so plan your climb accordingly.
