Honestly, I thought the world-class rock climbing in Bishop was limited to bouldering at first since that’s all I heard about. Growing up in Southern California, I’d taken annual ski trips to Mammoth and had passed by the flat and rather uninteresting desert, so I didn’t really explore further until I started hearing whispers of Owen’s River Gorge.
When I finally went to check it out, my mind was BLOWN! Many of its 800 sport climbs top out at over 200 feet above a winding river! ORG quickly became my favorite sport climbing area. That is, until I finally visited Pine Creek.
I was under the impression Pine Creek was primarily a trad climbing area. While there are plentiful trad climbs, the featured granite sport climbing routes there are some of the best I’ve encountered anywhere!
Additionally, with nearby sport climbing in Rock Creek, Clark Canyon, Mammoth Lakes, and June Lake, there are 1500+ sport climbs in this small section of the eastern sierras.
There might be more sport routes than I can complete in my lifetime, but I can definitely try, but only if I can afford to keep coming back! Below is my go-to dirtbag rock climbing itinerary where I climb all the fun stuff and really only pay for gas and food.
Day 1 Sport Climbing in Bishop: Owen's River Gorge (Upper Gorge)
Finding a Campsite
When I plan a trip to go sport climbing in Bishop, I’m usually driving 5+ hours from Los Angeles which gives me a partial day of climbing after finding a campsite. I can’t focus on climbing if I don’t know where I’m sleeping, so snagging a site is the first thing I do.
Luckily, there is free dispersed camping (most is fine for 2wd vehicles) really close to both Owen’s River Gorge and Pine Creek! There are a few paid options as well, but I prefer the solitude at the expense of the amenities.
I personally choose to camp near ORG because there are a lot more options to get away from other campers, but you definitely have options with their own pros and cons.
More information/recommendations on choosing a campsite below!
**Pro Tip #1: To get to Owen’s River Gorge Road for climbing OR camping, NO MATTER WHAT YOUR MAP SAYS, you MUST exit the 395 at the Paradise/Swall Meadows exit, but turn right. Otherwise you will be stuck burning fuel and time as you climb up in elevation for the next 10 miles with no turnaround. I’m embarrassed to say it’s happened to me multiple times.
**Pro Tip #2: If you are coming from LA, stop for lunch at Copper Top BBQ in Big Pine and order the Big Pine Platter for 2. Whatever you don’t eat, roast over the campfire for dinner. You can thank me later!
Rock Climbing in Owen's River Gorge Upper Gorge Area
I personally think the Upper Gorge is the best part of the Gorge! I LOVE the style of climbing, many routes require a 70m or even 80m rope to complete, and it has the easiest approach in my opinion. Below I’ve recommended some of my favorite crags and routes!
Approach for the Upper Gorge
The approach is fairly steep, but only 10-30 minutes depending on the destination crag. Park at the gate and leave enough room for other cars to turn around and LADWP workers to get trucks through.
Pass the gate and walk for a couple minutes until you find the descent trail (easy to miss) which sometimes has a cairn. Mountain Project is useful here.
The trail is pretty steep but only a couple sections require use of hands and class 3 scrambling. Once at the base, the crags extend in both directions on both sides of the river.
All You Can Eat: A Great Warm-Up Wall
Right at the base of the approach is a crag called All You Can Eat. It’s usually shady after the early morning and has some fun warm-ups including:
- Crotalulsley Challenged (5.6): a rather challenging 5.6
- Step Right Up (5.8): a bit pumpy and awkward but fun nonetheless
- Cinderella (5.9): one of my favorite 5.9 sport climbs anywhere! Stemmy and interesting!
- Hot Pink Socks (5.9+): 115′ of fun! Relatively easy followed by some cruxy mantles towards the top
Dihedrals + Gotham City
These sunny crags are across the river and it’s been too hot to spend much time over there when I’ve gone, but I have a whole list of routes to try!
I’ve only done Gangsta Lean (5.8) which is honestly so awesome I’ve done it twice! Prepare for an old school style 5.8 with a very high first bolt. Follow to clean it.
At Gotham City, Dr. Evil (5.10a) and Grindrite (5.11b) are on my todo list, but there are so many fun and tall climbs to choose from!
There are so many fun looking climbs over there that I haven’t gotten to yet. If you get over there, let me know some of your favorites!
Gorgeous Towers + Triple Play Cliff
Visible from the parking area, this is my FAVORITE area so far! I absolutely ADORE Gorgeous (5.10b) and can’t wait to try Wacked Scenario, a 125′ 5.10b bolted crack climb!
Just next door is Triple Play Cliff with fun moderates that we enjoyed like Badassitude (5.8) and Snapping Pussy Doll (5.10a).
We had an awesome time climbing in this little shady area, and I can’t wait to return to climb some of the routes I missed on prior trips.
Additionally, across the river at Lower Elbow Room is one of my favorites: 115′ Slip ‘n Slide (5.9) which is usually sunny and incorporates crack and slab climbing skills!
Day 2 Sport Climbing in Bishop: Pine Creek (Scheelite/Pratt's Crack Canyon)
Sport Climbing in Pine Creek
You really can’t say you’ve been climbing in Bishop until you’ve climbed at Pine Creek! Like I said, I’d always thought of Pine Creek as more of a trad climbing area, but the sport climbing routes are abundant and some of the best I’ve ever encountered!
From camp near Owen’s River Gorge, it’ll most likely take 30+ minutes to drive to Pine Creek, but the drive through Rovana is beautiful (especially in the fall) as you watch this hidden picturesque canyon open up in front of you!
Approach for Pine Creek (Scheelite Canyon)
The approach for Scheelite Canyon is short and straightforward and offers you access to over 140 sport climbs in close proximity with new development happening regularly. There are single and multi pitch sport routes available here!
Park in the obvious pullouts on the right side of Pine Creek Road and head up the obvious trail to the canyon. During the summer, there is a seasonal pit toilet located at the parking area. During the winter, a WAG bag is recommended to reduce environmental impact.
How to Choose a Sport Climbing Crag in Scheelite Canyon
There are SO MANY good crags in Scheelite Canyon, but I usually choose based on temperature. Even warm days can get chilly with the alpine breeze whipping through the canyon.
On cold days, I’ll head to crags on the right side of the canyon like Bavarian Wall and Biscotti Buttress. Even Gateway slab is a fun area to warm up in the morning!
On warm days, Mustache Wall, Ministry Wall, Dihedrals Area, Gecko Wall, and Mini Wall are the way to go!
Best Warm-Ups
There aren’t many easy climbs here, so the best warm-ups begin around the 5.8 level. My favorite warm-ups include:
- Queen of Spades (5.8+): a heady but fun and balancey slab climb in the sun
- Five Easy Pieces (5.8): a fantastic sunny climb that just keeps going for 115′
- Gimpenator (5.8): a fun and slightly awkward climb in the shade
- Captain SquareTooth (5.8 PG13): tricky start to fun 5.8 crack climbing in the shade, then an easy runout to the anchors
Favorite Shady Climbs at Pine Creek
Let me start by saying I’ve never NOT enjoyed a climb at Pine Creek. The climbs below are just some of my many favorites. Some might be sunny in the early morning, but they go into the shade before lunch.
There are SO MANY climbs here on the left side of the canyon, so I obviously haven’t done them all, but I’ll be sure to update this list with future favorites too!
- Gimpenator (5.8): a fun and slightly awkward warm-up
- Never Believe (5.10c): a mixed crack and face climb that allows you to swap between styles! Plus, if you can’t get enough, it just keeps going with 5.10d extensions to 35m and 50m!
- Get in the Groove (5.10b): a bolted offwidth with mixed sizes
- Left for Dead (5.10c): my first 5.10c onsight! some crack + bearhug technique
- Cuss Terr’s Last Stand (5.11b): crimps for days + a committing mantle
- Subatomic (5.10c): 35m of chimney
- Queen of the Heartbreaks (5.11b): I haven’t done this climb but I want to SO BADLY
Favorite Sunny Climbs at Pine Creek
Although most of the climbs in Scheelite Canyon are in the shade, there are a few fun ones on the right side of the canyon in the sun for the chillier days! However, in the winter, the sun may not even hit some of these. In April, they were all very sunny and warm.
Again, I’ve barely scratched the surface here, but some of my sunny favorites are:
- Five Easy Pieces (5.8): one of the best and longest 5.8s I’ve ever climbed
- Vanadium Miner’s Daughter (5.9): true heady slab climb close to the car
- Tiramisu (5.9/5.10a): a nice long 5.9 pitch that leads into a sustained second 5.10a pitch right off the belay
Day 3 Sport Climbing in Bishop: Owen's River Gorge (Central Gorge)
Rock Climbing in Owen's River Gorge Central Gorge Area
I’ve definitely spent more time in the Upper Gorge area of Owen’s River Gorge than the Central Gorge, but the climbing here is equally as fun and diverse! The main caveat is the very steep and arduous approach in and out of the Gorge here.
However, there is a pit toilet at the base of the approach which is great after a few nights of dispersed camping!
Approach for the Central Gorge
From the parking area, the descent doesn’t look much further than the descent into the Upper Gorge, but I’d reckon it’s at least twice as tall. The trail is comprised of hundreds of talus steps that make you wonder if you’ll ever make it back up. Once at river level, plentiful fun crags and climbs await you!
Warm Up Wall Actually Has the Best Warm Ups
I love thawing out in the early morning sun and getting my muscles moving on some easy but pumpy climbs here! Not too far from the base of the approach trail, this wall is home to some of my favorites warm-ups including:
- Clip Jr. (5.6): fun arete climb
- High Seas (5.7): pumpy + fun steep climbing
- Babushka (5.8): very fun + more pumpy than expected (my favorite on the wall)
- Crowd Pleaser (5.9): also fun + pumpy
Upper Crust: Hard + Unique Climbing
Other Notable Crags at the Central Gorge
Like I said, I haven’t spent much time here because I love nice easy approaches, but these crags have sparked my interest due to their wide range of climbs:
- Banana Belt: 5.7 – 5.12 climbing not too far from the approach trail
- Great Wall of China: 5.8 – 5.13 climbing with plenty of every grade
- Pub Wall: lots of 5.10 – 5.11 routes right next to the approach trail
Check out my past climbing trips to Bishop!
Day 4 Climbing in Bishop: Choose Your Own Adventure
Of course you’ve been choosing your own adventure this whole time, but this is the last day! I personally plan to be spontaneous on the last day.
Sometimes my fingers are too sore to climb, and sometimes I just can’t wait to spend my last morning on the rock! I’ll tune into how I feel and plan the day from there.
Rock Climbing Options
If my fingers aren’t bleeding and my muscles haven’t fully seized up, here is a list of nearby climbing options that I go through when I’m trying to decide my next move.
More Sport Climbing in Bishop
If I feel up for more sport climbing in Bishop, I’ll return to finish some climbs I didn’t get around to at Owen’s River Gorge or Pine Creek. There are many more crags to choose from!
Bouldering in Bishop
Obviously, Bishop is also a world-class bouldering destination. If you feel up for it, you can check out the notoriously difficult and tall Buttermilk Boulders, or the more approachable Happys and Sads in the Volcanic Tablelands just outside Bishop. These are great options for colder winter days.
Mammoth Lakes Area
If it’s closer to summer and I feel like I’ve done enough climbing in Bishop, I’ll check out a crag in the Mammoth Lakes area like Rock Creek, Clark Canyon, or my favorite: Dike Wall across from Lake George. I’ll never get tired of Cromagnon (5.10a), but maybe I just love the view from the top!
Within an Hour North
Within an hour’s drive, you can even find sport crags in June Lake, ice climbs in Lee Vining, and trad adventures in Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park!
Alabama Hills Pit-Stop
If you’re heading back down to LA like me, Alabama Hills is on the way! I like to make a quick pitstop to stretch my legs and climb Bananarama (5.8) or Rotten Bananas (5.7) on Tall Wall before continuing on!
Non-Climbing Adventures near Bishop
If your fingers are screaming that they’ve had enough (which mine usually are by day four), the Sierra Nevada Mountains have no shortage of things to do!
My go-to’s are:
- Ski/snowboard or mountain bike at Mammoth Mountain: lift tickets can be pricey (unless you have an IKON Pass like I do), but definitely a fun change of pace
- Ski/snowboard at June Mountain: less crowded and much smaller than Mammoth Mountain (also on the IKON Pass)
- Soak in a hot spring: VERY nice at the end of a climbing trip, clothing optional, usually crowded unless you get lucky or find one NOT on Google Maps, no I won’t tell you my favorite, just take a drive up Benton Crossing Road
- Check out Hot Creek Geologic Site: appreciate all the geothermal activity while staying dry
- Swim in a lake: I’d recommend Crowley Lake, Convict Lake, or any of the Mammoth Lakes (open in the summer)
- Explore the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest: hike through and learn about 4000-year-old trees
- Hike to Devil’s Postpile or Rainbow Falls (summer only): very cool but a bit of a mission with the shuttle situation (only open weekends summer 2024 due to road construction)
- Fly fish in Owen’s River Gorge or Lower Rock Creek: I personally don’t fly fish, but I know a lot of people who love traveling here for it
Free Camping in Bishop: My Advice
As I mentioned earlier, there is no shortage of free dispersed camping near Bishop. Between the BLM land and Inyo National Forest land, your options are seemingly endless. I generally choose between the following options.
Dispersed Camping near Pine Creek
There are a few spurs off Pine Creek Road that allow you to dispersed camp within walking distance of the Scheelite/Pratt’s Crack Canyon climbing area. They fill up quickly but are a better option on hot summer days or if most of your climbing will be at Pine Creek.
Dispersed Camping near Owen's River Gorge
I usually prefer to dispersed camp near Owen’s River Gorge. Most of the area between Benton Crossing Road and Bishop is fair game with the exception of developed areas or areas right next to ORG/Lake Crowley which are owned by LADWP.
This entire area encompasses many of the hot springs on the north end, Inyo National Forest land in the middle, and Volcanic Tablelands (BLM) just above Bishop.
Check out this interactive land use map before you go, so you can research fire restrictions or closures on the land you plan to camp on.
I generally choose a spot north of the Upper Gorge parking area and south of the town of Sunny Slopes on Inyo National Forest land, because I like camping near trees. On our trip in October 2023, we camped five minutes from the Upper Gorge parking area.
**Pro Tip: If you plan to camp above Long Valley Dam east of Lake Crowley, although rare, we once found the dam across Lake Crowley closed which forced us to drive all the way up and around Benton Crossing Road to get back to the 395.
Other Nearby + Affordable Camping Areas to Consider
There are a lot of options for camping in this area, but here are a couple more notable options:
- Mammoth Scenic Loop dispersed camping: a bit out of the way but lots of options and a great summer options since it’s at elevation + easy to access for 2wd vehicles. Lots of 4wd options that extend almost to June Lake.
- Pleasant Valley Pit Campground: $5 per night with toilets, fire rings, and picnic tables. First come first served. No water. Best for cold weather.
Last Tidbits of Dispersed Camping Advice
There are a lot of factors to consider when planning to dispersed camp since there are no amenities available to you.
First, I like to bring something along to claim the site while I’m out climbing for the day like a cheap tent and cheap camp chairs, even if I plan to use a nicer tent to sleep in. Additionally, your most easily accessed toilets will be at the base of Owen’s River Gorge Central Gorge climbing area and the parking lot for Scheelite Canyon (in the summertime), so going anywhere else will require a shovel or WAG bag.
Here are some more tips to remember:
- Plan to bring enough water for your trip since there are no refill stations.
- Practice leave no trace ethics:
- Manage your trash and food waste well to keep animals out.
- Bury your waste and toilet paper properly or bring WAG bags if you can’t figure that out.
- Leave the campsite better than you found it.
- Research campfire restrictions for the land you intend to camp on on the Bishop BLM site or the Inyo National Forest site and obtain a CA Campfire Permit.
Lastly, even though dispersed camping takes a bit more planning, I feel that the solitude and reasonable price (free) makes it more than worth it! If that’s not your vibe, there are plenty of paid campgrounds nearby like PV Pit.
When to Go Rock Climbing in Bishop
Each season has its own pros and cons, but my favorite times to go climbing in Bishop are fall and late spring, but every season is very condition-dependent. In order to keep up with the latest conditions affecting climbing in Bishop, I follow the Bishop Climbing Rangers Instagram account because they post weekly conditions reports that I find SO HELPFUL!
Springtime Climbing in Bishop
I personally love springtime climbing in Bishop, but the weather can be really variable. On our most recent trip (April 2024), we enjoyed beautiful 65 degree days and sunshine, but it stormed with sleet and ripping winds the following two weekends.
In the springtime, the views of the snow-covered Sierras are incredible and fire restrictions are usually more relaxed, but you have to get lucky with the weather.
Summertime Climbing in Bishop
Summertime is perhaps my least favorite time to go climbing in Bishop. Temperatures regularly hit 100 degrees in the Gorge. Even Pine Creek can get rather hot, though you can still find a cool breeze in the shade up there.
Regardless, I’d opt for rock climbing and camping at a higher elevation in Mammoth during this time of year.
Fall Climbing in Bishop
Rock climbing in Bishop in the fall is probably your best bet if you are planning your climbing trip far in advance. The weather is the most consistent and temperatures are reasonable from late September through December without much precipitation.
The major drawback for me personally is the fire restriction due to the dry climate. Usually I have to wait until late November or early December to have a campfire.
Wintertime Climbing in Bishop
California has pretty mild winters, even in the high desert, and the Gorge usually doesn’t get too much snow. Pine Creek, however, is pretty inaccessible after the first good snowfall. That being said, sunny climbs in the Gorge can be really nice, even in 40 degree weather!
Keep in mind though, storms are more frequent this time of year and cloudy or windy days will be frigid. On the colder winter days, bouldering at a lower elevation at the Buttermilks or Volcanic Tablelands is still a good option, as is sport climbing an hour south at Alabama Hills.
No matter when you choose to visit, I hope you have a phenomenal time rock climbing in Bishop! It’s become my favorite place to sport climb, so I hope you get to experience it like I have. When you do, definitely shoot me a message and let me know how it went!